It did not come with the two bolt studs, or alignment studs, or transfer plate (which is just as well, because you are supposed to use the transfer plate from your 2.5 anyway). 4 guys could probably lift the engine pallet off the truck too. It had a little shipping damage, but nothing major, just a few scrapes and bumps on the timing covers and oil pan. The engine came on a semi-truck without a lift gate ( I didn't take the lif-tgate option ), unloaded it with a skid-steer. It took a tad longer than a week for the engine to come, and you will probably need to call them to get the freight tracking number. (I had to call them on it, the engine invoice only had the billing info available to enter, and they didn't look at the paypal shipping address). If your shipping address is different than your billing, make sure they know. I called their number, told the guy what engine I was looking on (I guess they have stuff on eBay too), he told me to go ahead and purchase the engine on the website, and he would send me a paypal invoice for freight (I had it shipped to my place of work where I had a skid-steer available). JDM Engines Import was pretty easy to deal with. 27-30 MPG highway! I will need to go on a long trip (200 miles) to actually find out if I got a true reading. I didn't have time for a long drive, so only did around 43 miles, but the results look promising! Approx. I tore the intake apart and painted the manifold and fuel lines, cleaned everything up, swapped over parts from the 2.0 intake) I'm completed with my swap, went out for a test drive, and have no issues with the engine! (I had two problems that were intake related, but were due to my tinkering. It takes a decent amount of time if you making sure you are doing it to spec, and you want to make sure you have a decently strong engine that will easily last another 100k to make it worth it. So, rebuilding is not option I look at first anymore. (timing belt and pulleys, water pump, new head bolts, Six-Star MLS headgaskets, valve cover gasket and seals, sparkplugs, various seals and gaskets, rear oil plate, etc.) I used OEM Subaru parts wherever I could, and I did scrounge for them in the cheapest places I could find. I ended up spending about $800 to $1000 on just parts. I practically rebuilt the engine on (had bad headgaskets) I tore it down to the short block, cleaned everything, replaced seals and gaskets, resurfaced the heads myself (so no machining costs). I had another Forester that I fixed up for my brother 2 years ago. Ordered it from online distributor, JDM Engines Import. The 2.0 I got is imported from Japan (so 60k or less on it), It's a 20E engine, and is probably from a 2003 Forester or Impreza. Or it is so rarely done there just isn't publicity. It would seem that the 2.5 to 2.0 swap is so good, nobody posts about any issues (except for improper swap). I had about 25 MPG before I killed my engine. I too am curious about the after swap MPG. I had engine failure due to a seized main bearing caused by multiple episodes of oil starvation (going on long trips with unknown oil leaks). I'm almost completed with my 2.5 to 2.0 swap (2001 Forester NA, AT).
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